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Mindslyder
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Posts: 190
Joined: Mar 2012
From: allenstown, NH
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 27, 2012 08:01 PM (Msg. 1 of 96)
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I just bought this Intruder VS1400 last weekend, the previous owner had it for 6 yrs and only put 500 miles on it and currently has 44.5k miles. He claims to have ran Gumout in every tank but needs a carb cleaning, I still bought it and now wondering if i have done the right thing. Drove 50 miles home only to have the battery literally explode on my way home( battery cable melted o hole in the top of the battery) and now will not run. I drained all the old fuel out, replaced it and added some sea foam into it, dropped a new battery and new plugs. now it kicks over and runs for about 15 seconds and dies. Checked the fuel pump and the fuel shut off are good. Only thing I have not done is accually pulled the carbs. I am mechanical but i never had the touch with carbs. Any thing else I should check?
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Long Hauler
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Posts: 836
Joined: Sep 2011
From: Aurora, CO
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 28, 2012 05:38 AM (Msg. 2 of 96)
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Our bikes can eat up batteries. I've had 2 "blow up" on me as well. I'd check ALL THE GROUNDS.
Sounds to me like a good carb cleaning is in order since she sat for so long. Just draining the fuel bowl could be helpful but a good cleaning (& carb sync) is much better overall. Once you get her back together you will not be sorry you took the time to do this..
But since you want to avoid this, the last thing I see you'd need to do is checked each air filter? Mice could have built a nice residence in the air boxes over the years.
Are you turning on the enricher knob (choke) when trying to start?
Are you priming the carbs before cranking her over (save the batttery a bit)?
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Mindslyder
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Posts: 190
Joined: Mar 2012
From: allenstown, NH
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 28, 2012 01:24 PM (Msg. 3 of 96)
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I have drained both bowls and took the compressor and blew some air in it, then left the bowl drain open and cranked her over to make sure it is flushed and getting fuel.
Yep, pulled the air filters and checked. Have the fuel tank sitting on the floor already.
Yep choken the chicken, on start, like i said, the bike starts but then dies after 15-20 seconds.
Did not find a primer on the bike ( is there one? )
Sounds like I need to pull the carbs, not a fun task, have the bike already torn apart, so why not.
Is there a filter screen in these carbs? I think my next move is to back flush the fuel liines and see if anything comes out.
 Edited by Mindslyder on Mar 28, 2012 at 01:27 PM
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Long Hauler
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Posts: 836
Joined: Sep 2011
From: Aurora, CO
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 28, 2012 01:29 PM (Msg. 4 of 96)
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Priming would be doing everything as is you were to start the bike but not pulling in the clutch lever.
When you hit the start button you should here clicking, this is your fuel pump filling the bowls with gasoline. Once the clicking stops the bowls are "primed".
Does look like you need to get into your carbs, but it is worth it.
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Long Hauler
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Posts: 836
Joined: Sep 2011
From: Aurora, CO
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 28, 2012 01:32 PM (Msg. 5 of 96)
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There are brass mesh filters inside the tank and there are screen filters inside each carb under the float needle. Rear float is a PITA to remove to get at the screen IMHO.
If you do go in break take out everything and clean up the ports/passages real good. Better to it right & thouroughly the first time.
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Sca
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Posts: 124
Joined: Oct 2011
From: Brooklyn, NY
Bike: VS700/750
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Posted: Mar 28, 2012 01:50 PM (Msg. 6 of 96)
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Do check for grounds in the system. As the bike vibrates it may be causing an intermittent ground. Check your boots and all cut-off switches (specially kickstand)for corrosion, if they have rust/green-mold, they can cause your bike to die as you describe. And I agree that you should clean the carbs, generally that makes the biggest difference.
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striker
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Posts: 1875
Joined: May 2006
From: spanish fork, UT
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 28, 2012 02:04 PM (Msg. 7 of 96)
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when i cleaned the carbs i noticed the fuel lines were rotting out.. save yourself some headache and put on new fuel lines.. cheap insurance.
good luck.. when you get it going youll be glad you bought it 
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Mindslyder
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Posts: 190
Joined: Mar 2012
From: allenstown, NH
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 29, 2012 01:00 PM (Msg. 8 of 96)
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Thanks guys, good info and also been checking the site for more info and sounds like this is a common problem with these bikes when let sit a long time. If i git it fixed this weekend, maybe the old lady will stop ridding me and I can ride her. (the bike of course  )
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Mindslyder
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Posts: 190
Joined: Mar 2012
From: allenstown, NH
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 10:10 AM (Msg. 9 of 96)
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Well, pulled the rear carb and looked pritty clean, still used a can of carb cleaner and lots of air. The front carb was a different story, the needle was all green. Believe that i got all the orfices good and the float did not hang up. Any ideas on why the needle was green? Also found the choke sticking on the carb open, cheaned that out as well.
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Krash
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Joined: Sep 2006
From: Fenton, MO
Bike: S83
It ain't YOURS 'till it ain't stock!
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 11:37 AM (Msg. 10 of 96)
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ethanol is alchol which draws moisture. does all sorts of nasty things if left to itself for years.
luckely yours seems to have free'd up.
i think your on the right track with clean/soak.
i use seafoam periodically throughout the year in all my motors and give it a good double dose if the motor is going to sit more than a month or so.
NEVER had any fuel related problems.....so far. best of luck
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Sentient1
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Posts: 278
Joined: Aug 2008
From: Tallassee, AL
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 12:35 PM (Msg. 11 of 96)
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Wouldn't hurt to clean up the electrical connections/contacts under the seat with some electronics cleaner and apply some dielectric grease before buttoning back up. Can get pretty dirty under there.
Get busy livin', or get busy dyin'.
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Mindslyder
Gender:
Posts: 190
Joined: Mar 2012
From: allenstown, NH
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 01:59 PM (Msg. 12 of 96)
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Long Hauler
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Posts: 836
Joined: Sep 2011
From: Aurora, CO
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 03:25 PM (Msg. 13 of 96)
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I do not see a part# 16 on the schmatic you posted? Maybe I missed it.
Possibly you meant #19, the (apparently) pressed in pin that holds the rear float?
If so I am unsure how to officially take it out without cutting it. I was afraid to punch mine out and didn't want to cut the pin. I remember a post on this awhile back & I believe that fella cut the pin and replaced it with somoething removable. Probably a good idea.
I took a medium flathead screw driver and slowly worked the lip open on the area of the float that envelopes this pin. Worked it slowly from one side to the other opening it up until I could pop the rear float off so I could be get to the float needle & screen.
Even with the float off I do not see how this piece (#19) can be removed without breaking something.
You'll need a good pair of small pliers to bend the lip back around this rod. Make sure it winds up free and centered in across the pin. You'll need to recheck the float height after this as well. My memory says it is 1.08" by the book.
If #19 this isn't the correct part, give me a better idea where #16 is.
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navigator
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From: Frostbite Falls, NY
Bike: S50
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 03:32 PM (Msg. 14 of 96)
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#16 is the needle jet, and I think it is screwed in.
slotted or allen, I'm not sure.
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Long Hauler
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Posts: 836
Joined: Sep 2011
From: Aurora, CO
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 03:56 PM (Msg. 15 of 96)
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Hmmm, I did not see #16 on top. Is it the piece the Needle goes thru to the main jet? The main jet unscrews with a flat head in the float bowl area. If part# 16 is the needle jet I'm unsure how is comes out, never tried as mine looked clear & clean.
Possibly this is the same part I was curious about and posted on this morning?
Not trying to hijack but maybe Mindslyder & I are looking to remove the same piece?
The piece I want to know how to take out is in the float bowl area. There is a space for it in the float bowl cover (its casted into it) and a slot for fuel to enter this piece's chamber by the float drain. Real small pin hole (at best). I'd post a picture but I am at work currently.
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Long Hauler
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Posts: 836
Joined: Sep 2011
From: Aurora, CO
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 04:46 PM (Msg. 16 of 96)
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Mindslyder, are you looking to remove the same part I am?
I've got a red arrow pointing to it in the picture or the piece under ther main jet between the two float floats?
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PhazerII
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Posts: 1081
Joined: Dec 2009
From: Northern Indiana, IN
Bike: VS1400
On My to-do list this weekend: Women & drugs
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 04:55 PM (Msg. 17 of 96)
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Once you remove the main jet, the needle jet should just push up and out into the throat. Sometimes you can screw the main jet back in finger tight, then back it out a half turn and tap on it with a plastic screwdriver handle. Don't go too hard or you might mess the the threads up.
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Mindslyder
Gender:
Posts: 190
Joined: Mar 2012
From: allenstown, NH
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 05:46 PM (Msg. 18 of 96)
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And this is why I hate carb work,  yes #16 in the middle of the page that the needle jet slides up and down in, I blew it out the best I could and used a lot of carb cleaner, but my consern is if something is plugged up in the bottom of it. Thank you all again for all the help, worst thing that happens is tearing the bike apart again I guess.
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Mindslyder
Gender:
Posts: 190
Joined: Mar 2012
From: allenstown, NH
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 06:34 PM (Msg. 19 of 96)
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After reading some other post (emissions control removal) there is a better close up of the part in question that you arrowed. I think it is the same part. There is a small inlet in the bottom of the bowl
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Long Hauler
Gender:
Posts: 836
Joined: Sep 2011
From: Aurora, CO
Bike: VS1400
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Posted: Mar 30, 2012 06:46 PM (Msg. 20 of 96)
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Yup, I borrowed the picture from that post to show the part I do not know how to remove it or what it does exactly.
Glad you can slide out part #16 for your query.
I'm still stuck on my part,...it doesn't show up on my schematic or the ones I've seen on websites with parts suppliers. It looks like there is a small hole in the tip like you suggest but I'm not 100% sure there is after poking it with a small needle. Could be but without pulling it out to look for light or an internal (clogged) channel) I really do not know if it does.
Hopefully somebody here on IA knows how it comes out or understands what this particular piece does in the carb circuits.
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does part 16 come out? Is it pressed in or screwed?