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Author Topic: Air/Fuel mix. screws (147 messages, Page 4 of 8)
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Brancy11

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Posted: Apr 12, 2010 04:52 PM  (Msg. 61 of 147)         

I am in attempt at this procedure, but cannot get the bronze plugs out!  I got a screw in, but I'm pulling and pulling without it budging.  Most posts said the plugs "came right out".  I sprayed some penetrating spray in there and am giving it some time.  If that doesn't work, I'll try the 1/8 bore instead.  WTF?


High Desert Intruder


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Posted: Apr 12, 2010 05:00 PM  (Msg. 62 of 147)         

Mine actually took a little bit of work to get out. I kind of 'jiggled' the screw up and down a bit to get it to come out



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MrSteed

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Posted: Apr 12, 2010 05:50 PM  (Msg. 63 of 147)         

Quote:
Brancy11 wrote:
I am in attempt at this procedure, but cannot get the bronze plugs out!  I got a screw in, but I'm pulling and pulling without it budging.  Most posts said the plugs "came right out".  I sprayed some penetrating spray in there and am giving it some time.  If that doesn't work, I'll try the 1/8 bore instead.  WTF?


I just barely did mine as well and it took quite a bit of jiggling to get them out.  I did everything like HDI said: Set idle to about 1100 RPMs after riding around for about 15 mins, turned the front one in until it started idling rough and turned it out until it idled higher and then continued until it went down again.  Turned it back to the highest idle and did the same with the other side.  When I was done I adjusted the idle back to 1100 rpm.  Now time will tell if it makes a difference.  I have noticed no more popping when letting off the throttle so that's a good thing.  Can't say I've noticed a difference in the ease of it starting though.  I think that may be due to starting it in 30 degree weather though.


Sometimes it takes a whole tankful of fuel before you can think straight.

    

Brancy11

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Posted: Apr 12, 2010 09:22 PM  (Msg. 64 of 147)         

Thanks guys.  I got the plugs out on the second try...wiggling up and down worked.  They were pretty tight!  I adjusted the A/F screws as instructed, brought the idle down with the thumb screw then adjusted the A/F screws again.   I'm not certain its all adjusted right, but its my best shot.  Are there signs/ indicators if it's not correct?

Here is a pic of the removed stock plugs for others benefit.  Noticed there wasn't a picture of them yet!



wb4whd

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Posted: Apr 18, 2010 11:47 AM  (Msg. 65 of 147)         

OK my plus were gone but the screws were set fully lean. I adjusted mine till the idle seems best on both and then turned down the thumb wheel to control the idle. No gas smell (which I didn't have before) and no popping or backfiring when I left off the throttle and downshift. Should I be good to go now?


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NReinaldo

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Posted: Jun 16, 2010 02:37 PM  (Msg. 66 of 147)         

Quote:
John KP wrote:
I'm just joined this forum and with the help of this thread, adjusted the idle mix on my 2007 S50. It is finally running like it is supposed to.

My bike has 1700 miles on it and is in showroom condition. I was never comfortable with the way it ran. It took a LOT of choke to warm up, idled rough, backfired on decel and and sputtered and bucked when rolling off the throttle. Sometimes it would kick back and the driveline would slam like it was about to break, usually going into a curve or coming to a stop - not good.

I drilled out pulled the idle mix covers and found both idle mix screws to be 1/4 turn from fully closed - tried turning them 1/4 turn each way and it had no effect on the idle. I even closed both screws and still no effect. Then I remembered the idle speed thumb screw. I had it screwed in as far as it could go just to make the bike idle. The bike had obviously been running on a higher speed jet all this time and not even using the low idle mix. After screwing out the idle mix screws about 2 turns, the bike finally started running smooth. I adjusted the rpms to really low so I could fine tune the idle mix on each carb.

Took the bike for a spin and it is a new animal. I can cruise along now a low rpm without the choppy ride and jerking. It's really sad that these late model bikes are being sold with such a lean adjustment that they are dangerous to ride and most dealers and mechanics are unable or unwilling to make a simple carb adjustemt.

Thanks for your help, especially High Desert Intruder, for sharing your knowlege and experience with us.


Hello everyone out there.
I wonder what is the idle speed thumb screw?
I tried to adjust the A/F mixture on both carbs but think didn`t do it well.
Before i did anything the rear cylinder only starts a minute after the front one and whit the choke full opened.
After i did the adjustment it all ready starts correctly and without choke. Today i caught the bike to came to work and when riding the engine "brakes" or goes down. So i realize that i didn`t the thing properly.
I screwed the bolt in gently till it pops, then i reverse and screw out till it peaks but then i can keep unscrewing completely the bolt of that the cylinder does not pop or goes down.
So i wonder you if it`s there any bolt to decrease the idle.
Sorry about my english.
Thank you.


JaxTeller

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Posted: Jun 16, 2010 04:56 PM  (Msg. 67 of 147)         

Quote:
High Desert Intruder wrote:


The idle thumb screw is pictured above, its the black verticle screw on the bottom of the picture.  This will decrease your idle speed when taken out.
That is what you're asking, correct?


NReinaldo

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Posted: Jun 16, 2010 05:47 PM  (Msg. 68 of 147)         

yes i think so   even if i can not see it black but ok i think i figure what is the one. Thank you a lot JaxTeller


High Desert Intruder


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Posted: Jun 17, 2010 03:40 AM  (Msg. 69 of 147)         

Quote:
NReinaldo wrote:
yes i think so   even if i can not see it black but ok i think i figure what is the one. Thank you a lot JaxTeller

Here are a few more pictures of the idle thumb screw......



BTW after reading how you adjusted the A/F mix screws it sounds like you have them set correctly. It just sounds like your idle speed needs to be adjusted which from what I read is what your figuring as well. Hopefully the pictures help



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NReinaldo

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Posted: Jun 17, 2010 03:23 PM  (Msg. 70 of 147)         

Hello HDI.
I appreciate your reply. You know i´m heaving the fallowing problems whit this procedure. Probably due to bad interpretation of your info.
Whit the bike in hot I screw the bolt f/a mix in the cilinder pops and slows a litle. Then i reverse and it starts going up and to "peak" idle rpm , but if i continue unscrewing, the idle rpm doesn`t goes down or goes unperceptive so i can not figure when to reverse screwing in to the peak. In conclusion it looks always on top peak idle rpm.
Other doubt i have is when screwing in to the peak idle rpm, its when it stars increasing rpms or or you must go to the top peak?
Don`t know if i have made myself understood.
Thank you once more.


High Desert Intruder


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Posted: Jun 17, 2010 04:26 PM  (Msg. 71 of 147)         

I have worked on a few bikes where you screw the A/F screws in til they start to pop and die then start unscrewing til you come to the high RPM rate, but then don't decline in RPM's as you unscrew more. I usually just start screwing in the screw til it just starts to drop in RPM's and stop on those bikes. Seems to work well so far.

Also keep in mind that the A/F mix screws work mostly at idle and have some effect up to a little past the 1/8 throttle position. I believe their contribution starts to decline after 1/8 throttle and has very little effect after 1/4 throttle.



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NReinaldo

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Posted: Jun 18, 2010 03:13 PM  (Msg. 72 of 147)         

Thank you a lot HDI for your feedback.
Tomorrow i will give it a try and see what happens.
Tell something later.


John KP

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Posted: Jun 20, 2010 01:19 PM  (Msg. 73 of 147)         

Yes, the air mix screws only affect the way the engine runs at idle and deceleration. At higher speeds the fuel is contolled by the jets. That is why it is very important that the idle speed is set very low when adjusting the idle mix. If the speed is too high, the engine might be running on fuel through the jets and turning the idle mix screws will do nothing.


E T Bass

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Posted: Jun 20, 2010 02:03 PM  (Msg. 74 of 147)         

You ever notice what happens when you run out of gas when your mowing the lawn?

What do the RPMs do just before it conks out?

Does it sputter and pop too?

If you look closely at the inside of the rear carb you will see that the idle jet sits higher than the main jet.

hhhmmm...

2 + 2 = ... ? ? ?


greenhorn

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Posted: Mar 7, 2011 10:46 AM  (Msg. 75 of 147)         

I don't know??? I don't own a lawn mower anymore. I relandscaped so I wouldn't have to mow a lawn ever again 10 years ago. When I did I never ran out of gas while mowing. I'd ask the neighbors I know if I could look at their lawn mower carbs but they use electric mowers and the other has a gardener who does the mowing.


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Desert Rat

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Posted: Mar 8, 2011 08:35 PM  (Msg. 76 of 147)         

To anyone who's richened up the mixture as described, have you had to smog the bike, and how'd it do?  I suspect these are leaned out from the factory for emissions purposes....like an old 240Z I had...one setting on the sidedrafts to make it pass emissions, then richen it up bigtime to make it run right....


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High Desert Intruder


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Posted: Mar 9, 2011 10:50 AM  (Msg. 77 of 147)         

Quote:
Desert Rat wrote:
To anyone who's richened up the mixture as described, have you had to smog the bike, and how'd it do?  I suspect these are leaned out from the factory for emissions purposes....like an old 240Z I had...one setting on the sidedrafts to make it pass emissions, then richen it up bigtime to make it run right....

Isn't Arizona the only state doing this right now? I know they tried to pass it here in California, but it was luckily siderailed. Anyway know if other states are doing this?



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MrSteed

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Posted: Mar 9, 2011 11:27 AM  (Msg. 78 of 147)         

I don't know about smog here but I know that VA requires an inspection.  I haven't had mine done yet because my Alaska plates are good until Sept of this year and I have a hard time paying for registration again.  I'll know when I finally do it.  I agree that it's stupid to smog bikes.  

-Steed


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YouthPastorNate

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Posted: Mar 11, 2011 07:35 PM  (Msg. 79 of 147)         

I just synced mine today, runs way better, they where so out of sync. Gonna adjust the a/f mix latter in the weekend hopefully it'll  run like new money.


Firebushking

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Posted: Mar 30, 2011 06:00 PM  (Msg. 80 of 147)         

Hey Guys

Do the newer S83 models need this same adjustment done to them.  I want to go ahead and try this, but am a little nervous that I may screw it up.  Just want to be sure.

Ben

 
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