Gender: Posts:173 Joined:Jul 2009 From:Guerneville, CA Bike:VS1400
Posted: Aug 7, 2009 12:09 PM (Msg. 102 of 115)
Quote:
Ninjato wrote: -1995 4 spd
-USA
-K&N (what in the hell are silencers on the carburators?)
-CM2 Nasty Twins
-145F
-155R
-stock pilots front and back
-screws set at best idle
-Needles(factory Pro) 4th from the top on front and 3rd from top on rear (plastic spacers left intact)
Those jet sizes would be MAIN JETS not pilot jets. Pilot jets would be half that size.
Finished mine. 1994 VS1400GLPS 4 speed. Front car jet, 145 and rear is 157.5, both are large round slotted type from the dealer (this was a poor-boy uncork with all stock parts). Front pilot at 2 3/4 turns out and rear at 2 1/8 turns out. Air boxes lids drilled out and foam replaced with open cell foam 3/4 inch thick (Grainger part). Stock exhaust with spark arresters removed, then modified for max exhaust flow. Inner baffle plate (from rear) drilled out with 8 each 1/2 inch holes around stock center hole. Idle is 750-800 RPM rock steady with carbs synced. Plugs remained clean at both idle and at WOT.
Gender: Posts:459 Joined:Mar 2008 From:Los Angeles, CA Bike:S83
Posted: Dec 20, 2009 07:21 PM (Msg. 104 of 115)
Thanks to High Desert Intruder’s help I now have the following settings.
2007 s83 (California), 1600 miles. FactoryPro 1.0 jet kit. V&H Classic II (one on each side) slip-on with baffle installed.
Issues before the rejet: decel pops (even with the stock exhaust), lean surge at 1,800 ~ 2,200rpm cruising speed. Excessive handlebar vibration at 2,500rpm and up.
We pretty much follow FactoryPro kit’s first setup example in the blue sheet.
Stock air boxes and filters
Pilot Jets: 52.5 front, 55 rear (stock 50/55)
Main Jets: 137.5 Front, 135 rear (these do not come in the FactoryPro kit) (stock 125/140)
Needles: both front and rear, clips on number 2 position with stock nylon washer on top and the stock metal washer below the clip. Compare with the stock needle, this setup raised the needle up.
Float height: per service manual (no adjustment needed for us).
Air/fuel mixture screws: best idle.
Sync the carbs at 1,000rpm and 2,000rpm.
Results:
Lean surge is gone (at least I am no longer able to notice it).
Acceleration from 2,000rpm to WOT is ok.
Cruising at below at 2,500rpm is most comfortable on the handlebar. I prefer 2,500 ~ 2,700rpm (below 70 mile/hour). The vibration is too much for me at over 3,000rpm.
The decel pops are still there especially when closing throttle at 2,500 ~ 3,000rpm. I will continue to investigate this. At this time, both Mark and I believe this may have something to do with the device for emission control (PAIR or something like that) behind the toolbox. Once we figure out the routing, we will block this and see if that helps.
Update: April 2, 2010
after about 150 miles after the rejet, I checked the plug color and they are a nice tan (the stock setting gave w whiter tan). I still have the decel pops and there is no PAIR valve on the Intruder, so will find time and see what could be causing this.
Update: Feb. 25, 2011
decel pop is gone after turning the air/fuel mixture screws out more. This is difficult for the rear carb, because the screw is very close to the frame, so I thought that I got it right with the previous try and found that was not the case, it is now at about 2 turns out and problem solved!
Edited by subin on Apr 2, 2010 at 12:13 PM
Edited by subin on Apr 13, 2010 at 10:56 PM Edited by subin on Feb 25, 2011 at 11:49 AM
Gender: Posts:27290 Joined:Jun 2004 From:Torrance, CA Bike:LC1500
Goin' for a Ride!
Posted: Dec 21, 2009 02:28 AM (Msg. 105 of 115)
Quote:
subin wrote: Needles: both front and rear, clips on number 2 position with stock nylon washer on top and the stock metal washer below the clip. Compare with the stock needle, this setup raised the needle up.
I believe that that actually lowered the needle a slight bit deeper into the emulsion tubes which would make it slightly leaner.
Quote:
Results:
Lean surge is gone (at least I am no longer able to notice it).
Acceleration from 2,000rpm to WOT is ok.
Cruising at below at 2,500rpm is most comfortable on the handlebar. I prefer 2,500 ~ 2,700rpm (below 70 mile/hour). The vibration is too much for me at over 3,000rpm.
The decel pops are still there especially when closing throttle at 2,500 ~ 3,000rpm. I will continue to investigate this. At this time, both Mark and I believe this may have something to do with the device for emission control (PAIR or something like that) behind the toolbox. Once we figure out the routing, we will block this and see if that helps.
If I can get ahold of your factory service manual for a bit I can disable the pair valve. I did it on the LC and it is actually a pretty easy process. I just have to look at how it's routed as I think I will need one vacuum cap and possibly a few other small items in order to just disable it.
Gender: Posts:51 Joined:Jun 2011 From:Chesapeake, VA Bike:VS1400
Posted: Jun 26, 2011 01:58 PM (Msg. 108 of 115)
Okay guys here is what I have so far:
1997 non-California
Jardin pipes with louvers
Removed rubber elbows from air boxes to carburetors
Air boxes in place and removed side cover from rear box
Installed K&N RU 2580's front & rear
Installed Factory Pro stage 3 1:) main jets 150 front/160rear
2:) pilot jets that come in the kit.
3:) air screws at 2 1/4 front & 2 1/2 rear
4:) lowered rear float 1 mm
Diagnosis: Bike is very strong throughout the throttle range. I have noticed a very slight (barely noticeable) surging at idle. I am running on 87 octane right now. I am going to run another tank full with sea foam to see if the slight surging clears up. I will post the results. Right now I am looking for somewhere to run a dyno.
Future plans: Dyna 3000 *after* the dyno test.
I will post all results afterwards:
Gender: Posts:550 Joined:Jul 2011 From:Bristol, United Kingdom Bike:VS1400
Brothers in Arms
Posted: Oct 6, 2011 03:21 PM (Msg. 109 of 115)
Pipes 2" slashcuts with thunder monster QQ baffles.
Set up as per CM stage 2 instructions.
ie
Front stock pilot, 145 main, needle 4th groove from top. A/F 2 1/2 turns out.
Rear stock pilot, 155 main, needle 3rd groove from top. A/F 3 1/4 turns out.
Filters are K&N drop ins using modified stock airboxes.
I put an extra hole in the side of the front air box on the right side of the lid directly below the original and the same size. Removed the mesh that used to hold the foam air filter element but not the frame surround (Thats what the new K&N sits against)
Did the same for the rear air box positioning the new hole just forward of the original.
Airflow is very good this way, and I can still use original mount positions for throttle cables and crank case breathers.
Height above sea level is around 600 ft living in the UK.
Bike is running sweet,smooth, pulls hard, and front wheel comes off the deck with hard acceleration.
UPDATE.
Checked the plugs after 120 miles. Looks like she is running rich ie, black sooty.
But the bike runs so well. Think the stock airboxes may need to be opened up a bit more. Maybe the airflows not quite right.
I could lower the needles to 3 from top and 2 from top, but have not seen this set up with anyone else, so airflow is going to be my first alteration. As said though the bike runs really strong.
ANOTHER UPDATE.
I have raised the needle not lowered, on the rear carb. Now both needles are set at 4 from top.
It seems my rich looking plugs were down to my A/F screws being to far out to compensate for a lean condition caused by the needle being to low.
Front cylinder just needed a tweak on the A/F.
The differance is noticable, but the bike was running so well any how that its a modest improvement.
Seems snappier off the throttle, and idle is smoother.
So I call this setting on the money for me.
Edited by V steel rider on Oct 9, 2011 at 10:35 AM Edited by V steel rider on Oct 15, 2011 at 03:05 AM
Gender: Posts:225 Joined:Jun 2011 From:The Sticks, WI Bike:VS1400
Zymurgist and Charcuterist
Posted: May 1, 2013 07:20 PM (Msg. 110 of 115)
It feels like such a relief to post this after dinking around with it since last winter. I've got it running well with a solid pull though the whole throttle and rpm range. It's not pulling the front wheel up but feels damn close. I'm satisfied enough with the power and mpg to just let it be and enjoy the season.
2001
USA - Wisconsin
K&N Pods
front airbox removed/rear has top and front and right side cut off
What should i run? my new bike was already set up this way when i bought it:
1991 VS1400 glp
straight pipes (no brand name, NO baffles at all, no mufflers, no h-pipe)
stock air box
i haven't pulled the carbs yet but will today i have a feeling jets will be stock sizes.
What are stock jet #'s? front and rear? and what do you guys recommend for stock Jet sizes for my set up with stock air box and straight open drag pipes?
I live in Cincinnati Ohio 45103 for elevation from sea level....
Thanks for advice, i've been jetting carbs for years but new to this Intruder.
FullMetalJoey wrote: What should i run? my new bike was already set up this way when i bought it:
1991 VS1400 glp
straight pipes (no brand name, NO baffles at all, no mufflers, no h-pipe)
stock air box
i haven't pulled the carbs yet but will today i have a feeling jets will be stock sizes.
What are stock jet #'s? front and rear? and what do you guys recommend for stock Jet sizes for my set up with stock air box and straight open drag pipes?
I live in Cincinnati Ohio 45103 for elevation from sea level....
Thanks for advice, i've been jetting carbs for years but new to this Intruder.
well, removed carbs last night, looks like the front jet is 125 and rear is 140. So I am assuming they are stock. Good news is my air Filters are K and N drop ins.
Follow Up...
I ended up getting a few jets (closest sizes availible from local bike store... I got a 145, 152.5, and 157.5.. that's the closest they had i was going to attempt to run 145 front (in place of stock 125) and 155 rear (in place of stock 140) but they didn't have those, so...
All they had were the large round, not any small round jets (for front i believe) so I ended up running the 140 stock rear up front, and used the 157.5 in the rear...
Cleaned carbs thoroughly in utasonic cleaner with berrymans carb cleaner, re-charged K & N filters, attempted to bench sync carbs best i could but I still am not confident with these link cables... I only found the one air to fuel screw thanks to the picture thread here on un corking where it shows it... that one i ran in and back out a little over 2.5 turns maybe 2.75 turns...
I figured since it has K & N filters in stock boxes I'll try that first....
So far no fuel leaks and I had my idle all the way down, while holding the throlle a little bit i got it to start and run but too late (2:30 am neighbors hate me and straight pipes as it is) and rainy to test ride tonight.
For the record I believe I have Cobra straight pipes definitely no baffles in them.
I cut one ring out of carb diaphram springs. and left the needle un touched...
NOW i need to figure out what fittings i need to screw into carbs for a home made carb sync tool or go borrow my friends and attempt to sync them. The throttle seems responsive but I will know more after sync and test ride...
Probably going to replace the plugs tomorrow too when i sync just to start with clean fresh ones anyone have any recommendations on plugs?
Thanks.
Edited by FullMetalJoey on May 23, 2013 at 01:36 AM Edited by FullMetalJoey on May 23, 2013 at 01:38 AM
Gender: Posts:6508 Joined:Jun 2007 From:Frostbite Falls, NY Bike:S50
Posted: Yesterday @ 09:59 AM (Msg. 114 of 115)
Quote:
FullMetalJoey wrote: Follow Up...
I ended up getting a few jets (closest sizes availible from local bike store... I got a 145, 152.5, and 157.5.. that's the closest they had i was going to attempt to run 145 front (in place of stock 125) and 155 rear (in place of stock 140) but they didn't have those, so...
All they had were the large round, not any small round jets (for front i believe) so I ended up running the 140 stock rear up front, and used the 157.5 in the rear...
Cleaned carbs thoroughly in utasonic cleaner with berrymans carb cleaner, re-charged K & N filters, attempted to bench sync carbs best i could but I still am not confident with these link cables... I only found the one air to fuel screw thanks to the picture thread here on un corking where it shows it... that one i ran in and back out a little over 2.5 turns maybe 2.75 turns...
I figured since it has K & N filters in stock boxes I'll try that first....
So far no fuel leaks and I had my idle all the way down, while holding the throlle a little bit i got it to start and run but too late (2:30 am neighbors hate me and straight pipes as it is) and rainy to test ride tonight.
For the record I believe I have Cobra straight pipes definitely no baffles in them.
I cut one ring out of carb diaphram springs. and left the needle un touched...
NOW i need to figure out what fittings i need to screw into carbs for a home made carb sync tool or go borrow my friends and attempt to sync them. The throttle seems responsive but I will know more after sync and test ride...
Probably going to replace the plugs tomorrow too when i sync just to start with clean fresh ones anyone have any recommendations on plugs?
Thanks.
Edited by FullMetalJoey on May 23, 2013 at 01:36 AM
Edited by FullMetalJoey on May 23, 2013 at 01:38 AM
NGK plugs for sure, no Champion product.
Either iridium or regular, your choice.
The A/F plugs are on opposite sides...right on front, left on rear or vice-versa.
5mm thread on the sync adapters.
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Posted: Jul 27, 2009 05:00 PM (Msg. 101 of 115)
I now have the following settings.
