'09 FJR1300

Posted: Apr 29, 2003 03:11 AM  (Msg. 2 of 113)

-1995 4 spd -USA -K&N (what in the hell are silencers on the carburators?) -CM2 Nasty Twins -145F -155R -stock pilots front and back -screws set at best idle -Needles(factory Pro) 4th from the top on front and 3rd from top on rear (plastic spacers left intact)

36 Yrs and Loving it!!!

Posted: Apr 29, 2003 01:46 PM  (Msg. 4 of 113)

Be careful in following someone elses settings and thinking your will run perfect...it will be close, but there is always variables to consider. Also make sure you understand the 3 circuits in each carb and how they affect performance. *Idle Circuit is your bike running with no throttle, at idle. Mainly uses the Fuel Screws, but is affected by the Pilot Jets to a degree. *Pilot Circuit is anything from when you start to twist your throttle to the WOT(Wide Open Throttle) position. This is affected greatly by your Pilot Jets and Needles. Contrary to some opinions it is also affect to some degree by your Fuel Screws Settings and your Main Jets. Main Circuit is basically your WOT or about 3/4 throttle on up. This circuit mainly uses the Mains to work from, but is affected by all the other settings to a minor degree. Alot of bikes will be running lean on their needles and will be compensated for by more fuel from the Fuel Screws being open further. This will cause a rich condition at idle and affect your throttle rersponse at the first 1/4 of your throttle. Most will not notice it or be use to it and it doesn't bother them, but performance will be down a bit and depending on your riding rich idle circuit will lower mileage for the in town rider. Maybe your Mains are too big.....top end will be a bit sluggish and again mileage at higher speeds will be down...who cares right?! Mains too small will cause a lean condition and depending on how lean can increase to end performance to a degree, but since you don't ride WOT all the time it should not over heat your bike...too much. Needles running lean can cause engine damamge and a problem with over heating in hot climates (engine popping, burping and maybe dying) Too lean will affect your mileage adversely just the same as too rich. Better to run a smidgen rich for longevity of your scoot. The list goes on, but all-in-all remember to write all previous settings down, make an adjustment to one circuit at a time to see it's affects and keep a log. When in doubt run a tad rich it's safer. Alway's feel free to run your settings and problems and solutions by someone on this board that has ran with their settings for a long period of time and understands why it is set the way it is. Your bike, altitude, temperature that day, fuel, country, etc all have major factors in getting your bike set-up properly. When she's running good she's a beautiful thing! :wink;

Never say an unkind word about the Time!

Posted: Apr 29, 2003 02:19 PM  (Msg. 6 of 113)

My current setup (which seems to be working well)

1995
-U.S.A.
-K&N RC-1820 Air filters, front box removed, rear modified.
-Cruiser Magic 2 Drag Slip-ons
-Main jet 147.5 Front / 155 rear
-Stock pilot jets
-(Pilot screws adjust for best idle quality--didn't count 'em)
-Factory Pro needles 4th groove front / 3rd groove rear


Stock plastic spacers removed.  Currently running a larger diameter washer under the clip and a smaller one above....Seems to work.  

Edited by kpreis on Mar 30, 2005 at 08:41 AM

Posted: Apr 29, 2003 07:43 PM  (Msg. 8 of 113)

SurlyBoy, you can't shim 1400 needles. The needle is restricted by the plate on top and shims won't help. You have to let the top of the needle come thru the metal plate to get a richer mixture. My 1400 with Factory Pro Stage 3 Kit 155 front/165 rear mains 52.5 front/57.5 rear pilot jets 2 1/2 turns front and 1 3/4 turns rear on mix screws 4th notch on both needles with plastic spacer in K+N 1820 air filters Vance and Hines slip on pipes NGK 7 plugs Elevation approx 1800' 40 to 45 mpg

Resurrected

Posted: Apr 30, 2003 04:21 AM  (Msg. 10 of 113)

1989 Canada K&N 1820's (chrome top - [u]I[/u] know they're chrome) haha CM2 - Nasty Twins - baffles in 147.5/157.5 52.5 front pilot jet/55 rear pilot jet 2 1/2 turns out front/ 2 turns out rear 3rd notch [u]from[/u] top on front needle 4th notch [u]from[/u] top on rear needle Factory Pro jet kit, filters were found at speed shop. I find that with this set-up the bike grunts and growls like a beast and makes it VERY difficult to ride for good gas mileage... :wink; nonetheless I can hit 42MPG on the highway if I'm sane (good days-rare).

Posted: Apr 30, 2003 05:59 PM  (Msg. 12 of 113)

1990 vs 1400 cm2 jet and filter kit front jet 155 rear jet 160(155 was largest jet in cm2 kit) needles 1 notch above cm2 recommendations. single skinned ss front pipes larger bore than std. jardine slipons(no packing and the disc removed from innermost end of baffle tube) mixture 2 1/4 fr 2 rear. 1994 vs 1400 cm2 jet filter kit 160 fr 165 rear(rear drilled out using weber jet drill bit) needles k&n set 1 notch down. throttle shafts machined to 1/2 original diameter. slides drilled heads received mild clean up porting. 2" single skinned ss drag pipes(our own) 30hp wizards of nos nitrous system. progressive adjustable nitrous controller.(set to provide full power over a 2 second period) msd 6t ignition unit msd ignition retard unit. hipo fuel pump for nitrous circuit only. low fuel pressure gas cut off switch

Posted: May 3, 2003 03:24 PM  (Msg. 14 of 113)

1996 VS1400 California, USA K&N pods Cobra? pipes, Tork Tubes @ head, Thumb screws (in baffle set screw hole) instead of baffles Mains 145F, 155R (CM2 kit) Pilots stock Pilot screw 2 1/4 F, 2 R Jet needle 4F, ?R Frustrtating saga: Bought bike with pipes and re-jetted ... bluing, but ran OK with flat spots (by golly these bikes are sooo forgiving). Bought Dyna ignition, (set @#3 advance), and jet kit, pods, etc., from CM2 (also nicer shocks). Had installed by great Harley wrench, who blushingly commented on how well it pulled. Much better performance, but still didn't feel right for this engine design and poor mileage. Couldn't change to CM2 pipes since no original head pipes (maybe will buy from Denmark?).Bought Dial-a-jets, downsized mains to 130,145 (not good ... reasonably smooth, but no better mileage. Dyno'd with air / fuel .... whoa ... super rich (10+:1) until mains kick in ... then super lean (to 17:1) at WOT to redline (didn't I tell you this is a forgiving bike ... mind you, I don't ride very far in this condition). Can you believe that I didn't fine tune the pilot screw! Today, put in Tork Tubes, swapped back to 145 / 155 mains, left dial-a-jet, warmed it up, and adjusted pilot screws ... could kick myself. Am waiting for it to clear up so I can make the trek to the nearest dyno shop to balance. What would I do without Intruder Alert to give me ideas about what others (more experienced) are doing?

Posted: Jun 8, 2003 08:21 AM  (Msg. 16 of 113)

It's amazing what you see when you write it down. I just realized that I have a 25 point difference between the rear and front main jets as opposed to the stock difference of 15. That explains why my rear jug is fouling and the front looks OK. I think I'll drop the rear to 155 and leave the front at 140. I'll also pull out the shims and try and get it to run cleanly through the rev range by just playing with the mains and mixture screws. I can shim the needles to fill in any flat spots once I get it in the range.

Posted: Jun 8, 2003 11:37 AM  (Msg. 18 of 113)

I am running the following: 2000 1400 CM2 regular pipes no change to baffles K&N Pod filters with air deflector installed for the front. Jet kit from CM2 Main Jet 145F/155R Pilot Jet: 52.5F/57.5R Needle height: Groove #3 on both F & R White spacer on top of the e-clip. Float height: No change Pilot screw: 2 turns out F/ I did vary from CM'2s instructions with the pilot jets, therefore I was running to rich on the 4th groove as their directions state. I needed to synich the carbs to get it to run good <>. He checked the exhaust with a sniffer to see if I was rich or lean and it seems to be good. I live in Northwest Iowa. I ride half the time on one tire!!!!! :biggrin;

Posted: Jun 9, 2003 12:19 PM  (Msg. 20 of 113)

- 1992
- The Netherlands
- Power filters from Highway Hawk
- SUPERTRAPP(they really rule!!)
- Main Jet 160 / 160
- Pilot Jets stock
- Pilot Screw turns 2,75f / 1,25 r
- Jet needles 4rd f and 3nd r, Dynojet
- Dyna coils with silicon wires and NGK plugcaps

The Supertrapp has _NO_ endcap and the sound is DEVASTATING!

Greets,

JP
http://home.planet.nl/~jpmustamu/jpbike
Edited by jpmustamu on Mar 29, 2005 at 01:26 PM